12V vs. Propane RV Fridge: Should You Switch?

Short answer: for most RVers with solar and lithium batteries, a 12V compressor fridge is the better choice. It cools faster, holds temperature in the heat, doesn't need to be level and has no flame. A propane (absorption) fridge still makes sense if you boondock for long stretches without much solar or battery capacity.

12V vs. propane at a glance

12V compressor fridgePropane (absorption) fridge
Power source12V batteries, plus 120V AC on many modelsPropane or 120V AC, and 12V on 3-way models
Power use on 12VCycles on and off, averaging a few ampsThe heating element pulls about 12 to 15 amps nonstop, so 3-way fridges only use 12V while driving
Off-grid needsEnough battery and solar to cover daily useA small, steady amount of propane
LevelingDoesn't need to be level. Dometic's CRX series runs at up to a 30° tilt.Must stay close to level, generally within about 3° side to side and 6° front to back
Cooling speed and hot weatherCools quickly and holds temperature in the heatCan take many hours to cool and often loses ground on hot afternoons
VentingNo outside roof or sidewall vents neededNeeds roof and sidewall vents
Flame and fire riskNo flame, no boilerOpen flame and a very hot boiler. Cooling-unit defects have led to large recalls.
NoiseA quiet hum while the compressor runsSilent
Parts that wear outCompressor, fans, control boardBurner, igniter, flue, gas valve, heating elements, boards and a sealed cooling unit

Why RV makers are switching to 12V

Lithium batteries and affordable solar made 12V compressor fridges practical, and they solve the biggest absorption-fridge headaches. You don't hunt for level ground, there's no flame to blow out in the wind, and your propane only goes to the furnace, water heater and stove. In 2008, Norcold recalled nearly 265,000 absorption refrigerators whose cooling units could leak and overheat. A 12V compressor fridge has no flame and no boiler.

When propane still makes sense

  • You boondock for a week or more with little solar. A propane fridge runs for days on a small amount of gas without touching your batteries.
  • Your battery bank is small and you aren't ready to upgrade it.
  • You camp mostly in shade or in winter, when solar output is low.
  • Your current fridge works fine. If it's cooling well, there's no need to rush. Many common absorption parts are still available, and we stock them.

Can you still boondock with a 12V fridge?

Yes. A 12V compressor fridge uses roughly 20 to 140 amp hours a day, depending on its size and the weather. Size your lithium bank and roof solar to match, and the sun puts back what the fridge uses each day. Our Solar Sizing tool gives you the exact solar, battery and charge controller for your fridge. To see how long one battery lasts, read how long a 12V fridge runs on a 100Ah battery.

How to switch from propane to 12V

  1. Measure your opening. Enter the height, width and depth in our RV Fridge Finder to see every fridge that fits. Many 12V models are built as direct replacements for common absorption sizes.
  2. Size your power system. Use Solar Sizing to plan batteries, solar and a charge controller.
  3. Run the right wire. A 12V fridge needs a dedicated, properly sized supply. Norcold calls for 10 AWG up to 15 feet, 8 AWG up to 20 to 25 feet and 6 AWG up to 40 to 45 feet, with no more than 0.3 volts of drop.
  4. Cap the propane line. Have a qualified technician cap the gas line to the old fridge.
  5. Deal with the old vents. Follow the new fridge's instructions for the roof and sidewall vents.

Shop new 12V RV fridges

Not sure which way to go? Call us at 1-800-712-8822.

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