13th Oct 2026
Dometic Americana Ice Maker Not Making Ice: Troubleshooting Flowchart
NO ICE
Dometic Americana Ice Maker Not Making Ice
On Americana models with the factory ice maker, no ice usually comes down to the basics: the shutoff arm, AC power, a freezer that isn’t cold enough, or no water. After that, test the water valve and the ice maker’s motor, heater and fill level.
Dometic Americana & Americana Plus · RM2351 through RM2862
Fits these models
Different model? These steps are for the models above, from Dometic’s service manual for them. For any other Dometic fridge, ask a tech before you test or order parts.
Before you start
- It only runs on AC. The ice maker needs 120 volts AC. It won’t make ice when the fridge is running on propane.
- How a cycle starts. The mold thermostat starts each cycle when the mold reaches about 15°F (±5°F). The freezer needs to be 12°F or colder.
- Safety first. These are live 120V tests and can shock you. Dometic says they should be done by a qualified service technician.
- You’ll need a freezer thermometer and a multimeter set to ohms and continuity.
PART A · THE BASICS
Most no-ice calls end here.
STEP 1
Check the shutoff arm
The bail arm must be DOWN to make ice. When the bin is full, the arm rests on the ice and stops production. Raising the arm all the way locks it up, which turns the ice maker off.
Is the arm down, with room in the bin?
Lower the arm
Empty some ice and push the arm down. If it won’t move or the ice maker still won’t stop when the bin is full, check the arm and its switch for damage.
STEP 2
Check AC power and the freezer
Make sure the fridge is plugged into shore power and running on AC. Put a thermometer in the freezer.
Is it on AC, with the freezer at 12°F or colder?
Run it on AC and let it cool
The fridge has to pre-cool before the ice maker can work. Setting the fridge to its coldest setting a few hours ahead speeds up ice making. If the freezer won’t get cold enough, troubleshoot the cooling first.
PART B · WATER
Is water reaching the mold?
STEP 3
Check the water supply
Make sure the RV’s water is on, the ice maker’s shutoff valve on the water line is open, and the line has no kinks or ice. Water pressure must be 15 to 125 PSI. To bleed trapped air, loosen the line at the fridge’s water valve until water flows, then retighten.
Does water come in during a cycle?
STEP 4
Test the water valve
Unplug the fridge. Remove the two wires from the water valve coil and measure ohms across its terminals. Then check the valve’s strainer for dirt or rust.
Is it 200 to 500 ohms with a clean strainer?
Clean or replace the valve
Clear any debris from the strainer and valve. If the coil reads open or the valve still doesn’t work, replace it. A valve cracked from freezing isn’t covered by warranty.
Check the wiring
The valve is good, so it isn’t getting power. The ice maker opens it during the fill part of each cycle. Check the brown and white wires to the valve and the 4-pin connector, then go to Step 5.
PART C · ICE MAKER UNIT
Water is there. Does the ice maker cycle?
STEP 5
Start a cycle by hand
With the freezer cold, turn the large gear clockwise 1/8 to 1/4 turn to start an ejection cycle.
Does the motor run and turn the ejector?
STEP 6
Test the wiring and timing motor
Unplug the fridge. Disconnect the ice maker’s 4-pin connector and check each wire for continuity: black (AC hot), white (neutral, split at the valve), green/yellow (ground) and brown (to the valve). Then check the timing motor’s two leads for continuity.
Do the wires and the motor have continuity?
Repair the wiring or replace the motor
Fix any wire without continuity and test again. If the motor has no continuity, replace it. If it has continuity and runs, don’t replace it.
Replace the ice maker
The wiring and motor are good but it won’t cycle, so the ice maker unit has failed. It mounts to its plate with three screws. Check that the freezer is 12°F or colder before you replace it.
STEP 7
Check the ejector and fill level
Look for ejector blades frozen into the ice, or water overflowing the mold. Cubes should be about 1/2 inch wide, 3/4 inch high and 2-1/2 inches long.
Are the blades frozen in, or are the cubes too big or too small?
Defrost and adjust the fill
Defrost the ice maker and cycle it by hand so the ejector stops in the right place. Check that the ice maker and the fridge are level. Then turn the fill screw toward + or −. One full turn changes the water by 18 cc; never turn it more than one turn at a time.
STEP 8
Test the mold heater
The mold heater (165 watts) frees the cubes from the mold. Unplug the fridge and measure ohms across its two leads.
Is it about 80 ohms (±10%)?
Replace the ice maker
Dometic recommends replacing the whole ice maker unit if the mold heater fails. The heater is wired in series with the mold thermostat, which closes at 15°F and resets at 50°F. A bad thermostat also stops the cycle and should be replaced.
Ask a tech
The heater, motor and water are good. The first few cycles after cleaning or winterizing may make small cubes or none. If it still doesn’t make ice, ask a tech with your model and readings.
Still stuck? ask a tech with your model, product number and the readings you got. We’ll confirm the part before you order.
Covers the Dometic Americana and Americana Plus: RM2351, RM2354, RM2451, RM2454, RM2551, RM2554, RM2652, RM2662, RM2663, RM2852 and RM2862. Based on the Dometic RM2xxx service manual, Section 10: Ice Maker.